June 30, 2007

San Diego County, Ca



Oceanside
We scheduled one week at the Guajome County Park in Oceanside, California in order to visit with Leon's daughter. Our first day in town started with a wine tasting with Trisha and Steve in Carlsbad and then we went to their place to continue visiting and for a bite to eat. On Tuesday we went back to their place for Steve's birthday cookout. It was great to visit with them and worth every mile of the long hot drive getting there.
The county park and campground seems to be a well kept secret. Two Indians from the nearby Mission San Luis Rey received the 2200 acre Rancho Guajome as a land grant from the Mexican governor in 1845. A later owner built a lake and marsh in the area and in the 1970s the County of San Diego bought the land to create a county park. Many of the locals come to the park area to walk, bike, picnic, and fish in the lake. We were only seven miles from the fun town of Oceanside alongside the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) and her 3.5 miles of white sandy beaches. More photos.











We enjoyed several hiking trails in the park after spending all of our days out touring the countryside.








We especially liked to go down to Oceanside, possibly have breakfast at Cafe 101, park alongside the beach and ride the bicycles on the path that borders the beach. Then we might drive further down the coast to another beach and watch the surfers or catch a nap. The Oceanside Pier is nineteen hundred and sixty feet long and is the longest wooden pier on the west coast.

Escondido
North of Carlsbad is an arid desert-like area in the San Pasqual Valley that is suitable for animals native to Africa and here we visited the San Diego Zoo's Wild Animal Park. It began 30 years ago as a breeding facility for the San Diego Zoo. The 180 acre sanctuary has settings similar to the animals' natural habitats. We saw most of the 3500 plus animals and 140 species. The day started with a tram tour among the larger animals: giraffes, water buffaloes, etc. in a natural setting. We decided that after seeing this we would forego the planned trip back into San Diego to visit the zoo. Included in our packet was a coupon for a wine tasting at the nearby Orfila Vineyards & Winery so we obliged before leaving the area. More photos.

Carlsbad
Leo Carillo, known as Pancho in the 1950s tv series "The Cisco Kid," bought over 2500 acres where he restored and added to the existing rancho beginning in 1937. It became a large working ranch with many vaqueros keeping it in working order. 10 acres are part of the historic park owned by the City of Carlsbad with restored buildings from his ranch which include a hacienda, pool, cabana, cantina, carriage house, stable and barn. We had a fun tour of the rancho which gave us a hint of what life would have been like in the area in past years. Peacocks running about the grounds also kept us entertained.



San Diego
An express train runs from Oceanside to San Diego, the eighth largest city in the U.S., with several stops along the way. For the senior price of only $5 each we could take the Coaster to San Diego so we took a one day whirlwind tour of the city. As we rode south we viewed the beach from the upper deck and disembarked in Old Town San Diego. In 1769 an expedition arrived and built the first of the California missions. The mission period ended with Mexico's independence from Spain in 1821 and the era of great ranchos began. Adobe homes were built in what is today known as Old Town. In 1848 California became a territory of the United States. After touring Old Town and eating fish tacos at Cafe Cayote we boarded the big red double decker tour bus where we viewed San Diego from the top level. We hopped off to tour the USS Midway at the harbor (embarcadero). We then continued through the gaslight quarter, once the main business distict which later became the city's infamous red-light district and later a skid row area before it's revitalization; Mission Hill, an affluent area next to Old Town; and Hillcrest, a bohemian village-like neighborhood with a mix of architectural styles and a shopper's paradise. I was surprised to find the town so hilly. We then boarded another bus for a tour through Balboa Park. In 1868, 140 acres of barren, cacti filled, pueblo land was set aside for a city park. It is now a cultural and recreational center which contains about 1200 acres of lush vegetation. In 1915 it was the site of the Panama-California Exposition. The ornate buildings constructed for the exposition and a later one in the 30s now house a myriad of museums. Balboa Park is also home to the San Diego zoo. More photos.

June 23, 2007

Aguanga, Ca


We reached the mountains outside the Palm Springs area by noon and were happy to climb to a higher elevation in search of cooler weather. The high desert provided plenty of sunshine and an ocean breeze in the little community of Aguanga. Our reason for stopping here was an Escapees Campground and we were delighted with what we found. It is the Cadillac of the SKP parks in many people's opinion. We enjoyed the library and both days made use of the pool and hot tubs. We might have ventured more in the area during our two day stay but driving the mountain roads was like a road race as the locals always seem to be in a hurry or think they are driving the Grand Prix. Therefore we opted to not go to nearby Julian for Apple pie or to the Mt. Palomar observatory, also in the mountains.
We did drive down into Temecula for groceries and learned that we were in wine country. Who knew? We enjoyed a visit to ards and other Leonesse Winery on a hillside overlooking the vineyard and neighboring wineries. More photos.
On Sunday we left for our reservation in Oceanside.

June 21, 2007

Laughlin, NV


Hot only got hotter as we made the 310 mile trip from Zion to Bullhead City, Arizona. We took the scenic backroad through the desert that ran alongside Lake Mead part of the way. The water is so low in Lake Mead that many of the marinas in the Lake Mead Recreational Area are closed. We drove across Hoover Dam and back but opted to not park and walk in the 104 degree temperatures to the visitor's center. More photos.

When we arrived at Bullhead City it took no time to check into the Riverview Campground and head over the Colorado River to Laughlin, Nevada to get in the a/c and out of the 110 degree weather. We visited several of the casinos but were surprised to find that shuttles do not run between casinos. We enjoyed a fine buffet at Harrah's and then saw a pretty good Elvis impersonator, Don Rose at the Riverview. After the show it was cool enough to enjoy walking alongside the Colorado River before calling it a day. More photos.

June 19, 2007

Zion NP, UT

After a morning bike ride in Red Canyon and a hike among the pines and red sandstone cliffs we completed scenic byway 12 and traveled all of 73 miles to Zion which became a National Park in 1919. The first white settlers to live in Zion were Mormons who were sent from Salt Lake City in the 1850s and in the 1860s to grow cotton, which was not available due to the Civil War, hence the area has been referred to as Utah's Dixie.


We entered down the steep incline and through the narrow tunnels on the east side of the park. The road was an engineering marvel in the 1930s but hardly accomodates today's rvs. They have to stop traffic and lead large rvs through the tunnel so that they can drive in the middle. We knew it would be hot and the 100 degree temperatures proved that. We also knew we wouldn't stay long. We got the last electric spot available and made use of the a/c until late afternoon at which time we boarded the shuttle at the visitor's center and marveled at the sheer cliffs that arise 2,000 to 3,000 feet in the canyon alongside the Virgin River. After dinner on the patio at the lodge we shuttled up to the Temple of Shinawa stop and took the delightful 2 mile riverside walk to the Narrows. This path follows along the Virgin River through a narrow canyon past hanging gardens. Some Evening Grosbeaks entertained us along the way as they were feeding in our path. A large buck with velvet still on his antlers also surprised us and didn't seem bothered by tourists walking by. More photos.

June 17, 2007

Bryce Canyon NP, UT

Bryce Canyon is the home of hoodoos, pinnacles of rock, often oddly shaped, left standing after millions of years of erosion. The Paiutes have a legend that people who lived here in the old days were turned to stone for their evil ways by the powerful Coyote. The cliffs, windows and arches in the deep ampitheaters are all colored in shades of red, brown, orange, yellow, and white which change with the rising and setting sun. With elevations rising from 6,620 feet to 9,115 feet, Bryce is cooler than the other Utah parks. John Wesley Powell conducted the first thorough survey of the region in the 1870s. Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce moved to the area and raised cattle shorthly thereafter.



Sunset Campground was a suitable spot in Bryce Canyon where we spent two days enjoying the weather and hiking the trails. Our first morning we drove up to the end of the road to Rainbow Point where we hiked the one mile Bristlecone Loop trail looking at Bristlecone Pines along the way. We spent the rest of the morning working our way back down the drive stopping at the many pulloffs to view various configurations of sandstone.
The most popular trail in the park perhaps, the Navajo Trail, is closed due to a landside of boulders of giant proportions. At dusk we descended the trail down 1/4 mile to the point where you could go no further. I call it a steep and strenuous hike coming back up but the park labels it moderate. Sleeping was optimum in the cool temperatures with gentle breezes blowing through Hernando's bedroom.
On the second day we took the 1.5 mile hike along the rim from Bryce Point to Inspiration Point. We caught the show at the visitor's center where I checked the bird book and learned I had indeed seen a Western Tanager. The red head, yellow body, and black wings made him a most colorful creature.
We also took the Moss Cave hike, .8 mile round trip, that is outside the park. It led to a mossy cave and a waterfall on the stream that flows down the mountainside and provides water for the town of Tropic. At one time the Mormons built a 10 mile ditch to direct the water to their settlement. More photos.

Thirteen miles down the highway we arrived at Red Canyon, a campground in the Dixie National Forest. It is a most peaceful place even though it is right along the road. We ended the day with hot dogs and s'mores cooked outside.

Before leaving the area we biked a short way up the trail alongside the road and hiked among the vivid red cliffs near the visitor's center. We were only 73 miles from Zion National Park but we knew it would be summertime once we went down the big hill.

June 16, 2007

Capitol Reef NP, UT


Capitol Reef National Park has lots of driving paths and hiking trails with pulloffs at various spots of interest. A giant wrinkle in the earth's crust called the Waterpocket Fold stretches for 100 miles across south-central Utah. This was created 65 million years ago by the same tremendous forces that later caused the uplifting of the Colorado Plateau. We started the first morning with a drive down the Grand Wash and then drove down the Capitol Gorge wash, two deep, twisting, water-carved sheer-walled canyons. We hiked further down the wash to see the signatures of pioneers, miners, and settlers who had come through the area beginning in 1871 and carved their names high on the sandstone cliffs.
The Mormons settled in Fruita by 1917 and planted fruit orchards as they moved west. The area was set aside in 1937 as a National Monument. In 1969 the Giffords, the last family in Fruita, sold their land to the National Park and moved away.



We viewed the Behunin cabin, the old Gifford homeplace, the schoolhouse, Indian petroglyphs, hiked along the Fremont River beside the campground, and climbed the ladder in one of the orchards to sample some deliciously sweet mulberries. We had paid $10 for two nights but once we realized it was 90 degrees early in the afternoon we decided one night had been enough and headed on down the road. More photos.

Not far from Torrey there are several forests with campgrounds and fishing streams. The area is full of quads and areas for 4 wheeling on trails that include the Great Western Trail that runs from Canada to Mexico. We stopped less than 20 miles from Capitol Reef at Single Tree, a campground in the Dixie National Forest. We had climbed to a higher elevation and the weather was delightful. Our camping spot at 8,000 feet provided a delightful view.
We made a treacherous hike though a meadow and down a steep hillside to view the Single Tree Waterfall. Even though the sign said .5 miles it seemed like forever due to the slippery footing. More photos.

From Single Tree we had a leisurely drive through the Dixie National Forest and Grand Staircase-Escalante. The Grand Staircase covers 1.9 million acres of red-orange canyons, mesas, plateaus, and river valleys and became a national monument in 1996. It is known for its rugged beauty and was the last place in the continental US to be mapped.

The views high in the mountains were spectacular and the narrow road with dropoffs on either side were a bit nervewracking. It felt like summer in Utah and elevation became the key to comfort.

June 14, 2007

Canyon Country, UT


We decided on the spur of the moment to go to Utah before the weather got too hot as we had planned to visit in August. So we left Cortez on a narrow 2 lane road, McElmo, which provided a 40 mph speed limit. We decided to tour some more ruins and detoured to Hovenweep. What a great idea! We walked along the canyon observing many of the ruins of the Ancient Puebloans. There are tall towers, outlines of multi-room pueblos, tumbled piles of shaped stone, small cliff dwellings, pottery sherds, and rock art that lie scattered across the canyon landscape. There was a sizable population here but noone has lived in the area for 700 years. There is a campground at the national monument which would be a nice place to stay on a cooler day (if there are no gnats) and then taking a morning hike in the canyon. More photos.

We then decided to go south to Monument Valley for lunch.

One just can't do it all if you proceed in only one direction. We enjoyed the various shades of greens in the Mormon Tea, the Utah Junipers, the sage and other desert plants in the mostly red soils. After lunch at Monument Valley's Visitor's Center we drove part way down the drive that weaves among the giant monuments of rock. We didn't go the entire way as we had other places to go. I was surprised they no longer had the campground but are building a hotel to open in 2008. The area is just over the border in Arizona and is part of the 16 million acre Navajo Reservation. No one knows when the first Navajo settled in the valley but for generations they have herded sheep and other livestock and raised crops in the area. More photos.

We stopped in Mexican Hat at one of the boat launches on the San Juan River and watched kayakers and rafters disembark. The float looked like a great idea for a hot day.




The rock formation at the right is supposed to look like a Mexican Hat.






Our next stop was to look out over the San Juan River at Goosenecks State Park. This is an amazing canyon that winds back and forth where the canyon was cut deeply by the river. Not far from there it was time to ascend the mesa. We climbed the steep gravel mesa that includes many 5 mph hairpin curves along the mostly single lane Moki Dugway. It tests my nerves each time I take that route. The photo is looking down at the road we just came from.


Once on the mesa we drove three miles down a dirt road to the Muley Point overlook where we could look across the desert floor from high above. We then had a quiet drive on a good two lane road to the Natural Bridges National Monument Campground. We got one of the 14 spots available and were pleased that the gnats were not too bad. We surely saw a lot in the 256 miles west, south, and north of Cortez.

In 1883 a prospector discovered the three magnificent bridges and in 1904 the National Geographic publicized the bridges. Theodore Roosevelt establed Natural Bridges National Monument in 1908. It sits high on Cedar Mesa, 6,500 feet above sea level. Two deep canyons were cut in sandstone formed from what was once the shore of an ancient sea.

There is a nine mile driving tour to view the natural bridges. Along the way are many pulloffs where you can hike to an overlook or even hike down to the bridges. The bridges were all created by water which distinguishes them from arches which are caused by other erosional forces. We hiked down under one of the bridges, Owachoma, which created a steep climb back up the desert terrain in the Utah sun. There is also an overlook that provides a view of one of the Ancient Indian ruins, Horse Collar Ruin, along the bottom of the canyon walls. More photos.


After enjoying the morning hikes we drove north through the Glen Canyon Recreation Area. (More photos.) We detoured through an old mining town, Hite, and down to look at Lake Powell. After we crossed the Colorado River the steep canyons included many shades of red. It is amazing that anyone ever managed to cut a road through the area. 155 miles this day found us at Capitol Reef National Park in Fruita, Utah.

June 09, 2007

Cortez, CO



We stopped in Cortez, Colorado to visit with friends Greg and Elaine enroute to California. We drove alongside the Dolores River up to Telluride for the day on Friday. Town was full of tourists and locals enjoying the sunshine and 70ish degree temperatures. This was an old mining town that became a popular ski resort. We strolled the main street and stopped for a fine lunch. Then we toured the city park where we learned there are small camping sites. At the end of the road we stopped to watch the waterfalls caused by the snow melting on the mountains. Days like this don't come along often enough. More photos of Telluride.




There is no grass growing under our feet in Colorado. On Saturday, 8 of us drove out to the BLM canyonlands area near Cortez. Here we unloaded the quads and took off down the sideroads in the high desert and former homeland of the ancient Anasazi Indians. We stopped in Yellowjacket Canyon for lunch with our friends and the gnats and then crossed the creek successfully but we balked at the second crossing. We drove back to Cannonball Mesa and viewed some other ruins. This area was settled even before Mesa Verde. After 32 miles of dirt roads we loaded up the quads and reflected on what a fine day we had! This canyon land full of unexplored ruins has been designated a National Monument: Canyons of the Ancients. More photos.

June 06, 2007

AR, OK, TX, NM

It is June and time to head west! This time it is a back country drive along highway 70 through southwest Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas. The first night stay at the Red River Ranch near Thackerville, OK was uneventful. The drive was nice among the green countryside filled with wildflowers in shades of yellow, red, purple and white. The herd of camels was a surprise. The campground was a disappointment in need of repair and maintenance in the middle of nowhere.

The second day ended with a real treat at a Coast 2 Coast campground, Roaring Springs Ranch Club near Roaring Springs, Texas. We found a nice camping site alone on the top of a mesa with quite a view.




The travel this year is taking place in the Roadtrek due to the high price of gasoline. The highest paid in Texas was 3.44 / gallon. My new quad rides along with Leon's on the new trailer which also has room for the bikes.




We were surprised to find such a lush green campground full of wildflowers, a golf course, a fishing pond, and 750 acres over which we could ride the quads. So ride we did! There is also a small bubbling spring and some rocks where the Indians used to grind corn.

The third day we meandered along the back roads for 368 more miles in wind and more wind and more wind gusting at 40 mph much of the time. We spent the night at Hidden Valley campground in Tijeras, NM, just outside Albuquerque. Here we don't even have a picnic table, just a pull thru spot and electricity which will suffice for the night.