Yosemite NP, Ca

After breakfast in Oakhurst we arrived in Yosemite later than we should have. We stopped to inquire about first come – first served campgrounds as it is hard to plan ahead usually. We were told we better grab a spot at the first one on the mountain, Bridalveil Creek and we got very lucky. We found a wonderful spot among the cedars and pines with giant boulders standing like walls between sites. We couldn’t have chosen a better place. The temperatures at 7,000 feet ranged from the mid 40’s to the mid 80’s whereas the high in Yosemite Valley was 101 the first day we went down. It was only a 30 minute drive so we would go down early and return to the campground when it got hot.
One of our favorite views in Yosemite is Glacier Point, which was only about 15 minutes from our home in the wilderness. From there we could look out at the mountains (this one is Half Dome) and waterfalls or peer straight down 3,000 feet into the valley floor where the cars looked like toys. We went for sunset one evening and to watch the full moon rising but the clouds obscured the moon. It is amazing to watch the changing colors on half dome as the diffused light from the sun causes the colors to change. We even got to see an alpenglow on the further peaks.
We explored the southern portion of Yosemite where we hiked in the Mariposa Sequoia Grove to the largest tree in Yosemite, the Grizzly Giant. We toured an area of historic buildings and wagons and learned much about the vibrant history in the Wawona area. The Wawona Hotel, the oldest in the park, is near the entrance and provides a glimpse into the past also. Not far from our campground we hiked down to the McGurk cabin, an early settlement in the area. We stopped on the way back to the campground and gathered enough wood for a great fire over which we roasted marshmallows.
One morning drive into the valley led us past a coyote jogging down the bike trail. Then in a lush green meadow nearby 3 bucks grazed while keeping an eye on the nearby doe. Our favorite mode of travel in the valley was our bicycles and we rode the mostly shady winding bike paths everywhere among giant Incense Cedars, Jeffrey Pines, and all sort of tall firs new to me. If we missed anything we don’t know what it is.
One day we had a picnic lunch near El Capitan while we watched some climbers scaling the next rock. We made a steep 1 ½ mile hike to the footbridge at Vernal Falls and then went for an elegant lunch at the Awahnee Hotel, a marvelous lodge type structure built in 1927. Our most memorable hike would have been the one to Yosemite Falls, the largest falls in the US, but the falls dried up early this year due to less snow last winter. We also toured the nearby Mowak Indian village that showed how the early inhabitants of the area lived, not to mention the visitor’s center, museum, deli, village store, etc.
On August 1 we ventured 67 miles further in the park along a scenic drive to Toulomne Meadows. We got on the waiting list for a campsite and luckily, two hours later, we got the last of 13 sites available. We took a 2.2 mile walk to the Soda Springs where the carbonated water bubbles from the ground. The scenery from the hillside was awesome. There are large lush meadows in the area with streams running through them and mountains for backdrops. The campground was a bit crowded but the crowds dispersed well on the many hiking trails in the area.
The next morning we went about 1 ½ miles towards the John Muir trail across the Dana and Lyell Forks of the Toulumne River. We visited with a volunteer along the way that was one of many search and rescue members looking for a lost 80 year old woman. After our hike we drove across Tioga Pass and descended down a steep hill from the 8,000 foot elevation, as we exited the park and entered Inyo National Forest. We stopped in Lee Vining at the Mono Lake Visitor’s Center and when asking where to eat lunch and do laundry the lady suggested we drive 30 minutes south to a larger town, Mammoth Lakes. What a surprise! More photos.

Bass Lake, Ca

It was hard to leave the Pacific coast and head inland but the time has come. We traveled through Salinas, "the salad bowl of America," where so much of our produce is grown. Then it was over the mountains through Pacheco Pass to again cross the San Joaquin Valley. As we neared the foothills of the Sierra Mountain range we stopped to investigate the fruit of some trees. Lo and behold! I do believe they were olives. We climbed into the Sierras and spent the night outside the SKP campground in Coarsegold since we couldn’t get the gate to open. It turned out to be just fine as it was peaceful and free.
We continued on to Oakhurst, the gateway to Yosemite but instead turned right to spend a night at the Bass Lake RV campground. It was packed with folks playing on the Bass Lake, a beautiful clear blue lake with beaches and lodging along the shores. We took a beautiful drive through the Sierra National Forest and stopped for a picnic. Soon we discovered Manzanita Lake where we paused to watch people catch recently stocked trout and to picnic. Such a scenic little lake as shown here.
We then went to the Chukchansi Casino and made a donation before driving into Oakhurst to enjoy the movie Hairspray. More photos.

Monterey Peninsula, CA

After leaving the House of the Mouse we spent one night in Bakersfield and then headed north again. We took our time traveling and stopped at this San Miguel Mission in Paso Robles. Yes, the area is full of wineries and wine tasting rooms but we passed them by. Nearby we had a picnic and toured an old adobe along the Camino Real, aka the King's Highway, which traveled among the missions built by the Franciscans. More photos. We managed to arrive in Carmel Valley in time for a few days at the Laguna Seca race track and the U.S. Grand Prix motorcycle races. More importantly we spent three days visiting with friends Rose, Robert and Bud. On Monday it was time to play tourist again as Bud went home and Robert and Rose went back to work. More photos.

We spent some time on Cannery Row, the old part of Monterey made famous in Steinbeck's novel by the same name. The area was first popular as a whaling community, then a tourist town, before the canneries opened in the 1920s to can all the sardines caught in the area. Eventually most of the sardines wound up in cans, the industry died out, and tourism again became the economic boost. Many small shops and restaurants line the streets. More photos.

There is also an historical significance here with a well-done historical tour (photos) that highlights some of the refurbished buildings dating from the late 1840s. It was here the Californian flag was first raised. Nearby is the old wharf, also lined with small shops and restaurants, but a good place to sample clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl while watching otters swim in the bay. By the end day we settled in at the Veteran's Park rather than drive back to Carmel Valley.

Our first day was a walking tour but on Tuesday we unloaded the bikes and enjoyed the rail trail that parallels the beach a block or so away. We finished our historical tour and then rode over to Pacific Grove. (Photos) This is a town where the Monarch butterflies used to fill the Eucalyptus trees on their yearly migrations. They still do but there just aren't so many Monarchs. Pacific Grove is a quieter area filled with old Victorian homes where we walked and shopped. It stayed cloudy today and we have been chilly even in jackets!!

We drove back to the historic district in Monterey for the Tuesday evening Market they have each week. There were plenty of flowers, fruits, vegetables, arts and crafts, and food vendors. We tried some Russian Blintzes and some Falafels and called it supper. (sorry, Mel)
After spending the morning shopping in Monterey we shifted
to Carmel and toured the mission there. It is the second oldest mission in California and where Serra lived until his death. Much of it has been refurbished. Shown is Serra's cell.

Disneyland, Ca

Parades, video games, swimming pool slides, Space Mountain, Matterhorn Bobsleds, ice cream, hamburgers, Grand Californian Hotel, monorails, trains, Big Thunder Mountain, light show, Indiana Jones, Rainforest Cafe. We tried to do it all!! Are we having fun yet? You bet! There are plenty of photos.

Bakersfield, Ca

We have come to Bakersfield to visit friends and family before taking Leon's grandsons to Disneyland. We are staying at an elaborate new RV park, Bakersfield RV, that has recently opened and we are having quite a rest after our indepth exploration of the southern and central coasts of California. We have indulged ourselves while here. Each day we have a swim in the pool and enjoy the hot tub. The internet cafe has allowed me to catch up on "my computer work." Each morning the paper awaits on our patio table. Some mornings we work out in the gym. At 2 there are cookies in the office. Coffee is available all day. It is quite a nice RV park.

Our friend Gary stopped by for a visit and it was indeed good to see him. He and Leon have been friends for a very long time and I met Gary at the same time I met Leon at the Slabs.

Robert and Tina either come to visit or we go to their house. We have also made sure to stop at a couple favorite restaurants for Chinese and Mexican foods. And indeed we had a pizza night at the Bird house followed by peppermint ice cream! We drove up to Tehachapi and checked on Leon's old house and then even went to a barrel racing rodeo. Best of all we have spent time with Gunnar, Leon's grandson. Lots of business has been taken care of such as haircuts, new glasses for Leon, and uploading photos. Leon also has a chance to catch up on some of the movies he has missed. Now it is off to see the mouse.

More photos of Bakersfield.

Central California Coast, Ca

Lompoc
After one more trip to Solvang for a Danish and a trip to Buellton for gas, we took the less traveled path through Lompoc to reach the coast. Lompoc claims to be the city of flowers and murals and indeed it is. West of town we took a wrong turn and passed flower fields filled with vibrant colors. More photos.

Pismo Beach
We found our way back to Highway 1 near Vandenburg Air Force Base and then stopped in Pismo Beach where the scenery changes from remote countryside to people intent on having fun. We watched the toy haulers roll to and from the Oceano Dunes where quads, motorcycles and dune buggies cavort in the sand. The streets in Pismo were lined with tourists and RV parks. This is where we met the guy with the pink mohawk and clothes to match who is riding his bike around the world. I am not sure he will make it with pink hair. More photos of Pismo.

Morro Bay
We had a nice visit with friends John and Judy in Morro Bay. John and Leon had worked together in a past life. We then drove out to the beach alongside Morro Rock and watched the beach activity. A little further south in Los Osos we drove out to the rugged cliffs at Montana de Oro State Park and looked out over the Pacific. From there a drive through the lovely countryside filled with Monterey Pines along the coast led us to San Luis Obispo.

San Luis Obispo
We went inland about ten miles and stopped by the Madonna Inn, an inn with a Victorian castlelike appearance that overused the color pink. The entire place reminds you of icing on a cake. Even the sugar in the sugar shakers is pink! The gardens were full of blooming roses in front of the inn. The bathrooms are not to be missed. In the men's a waterfall entertains. It is quite a lavish place. We couldn't resist returning the next morning for breakfast. More photos.

In the older part of town we strolled the streets, visited the mission and had dinner. There were lots of young people in town but evidentally nothing as compared to when Cal Poly is in session. We then located the Moose Lodge, our parking spot for the night.

Cambria
After driving north again we stopped at this is quaint little artsy community just south of San Simeon. We toured through one of the neighborhoods where the houses seem to cling to the sides of the hills on tiny lots, all trying to get a view of the ocean. In town the streets are lined with cute little specialty shops. Up nearby Hillcrest Street is Nit Wit Ridge, a multi level house with terraced patios built from abalone shells, old wheels, auto parts and other salvaged materials on 2.5 acres. Supposedly an eccentric hermit built the place and lives here. More photos.

San Simeon
The Hearst Castle, begun in 1919, is a lesson in extravagance. We toured a guest house, the outdoor pool, the lower level of the 115 room house, the indoor pool and some of the terraces. There is a 5 mile bus drive up the hill to the mansion which is owned now by the state. Every 10 minutes a busload would ascend the hill with another tour group. We also viewed an excellent big screen movie about William Randolph Hearst's life and the building of the castle. It was a few hours well spent. More photos.

Ragged Point
We drove further north along the coast to Ragged Point, the gateway to Big Sur, where the steep cliffs rise high above the shore and the narrow coastline and winding road provide breathtaking views. This was our furthest point north. More photos.

Piedras Blancas
Heading back south we passed Piedras Blancas lighthouse and then stopped at the viewing area where the elephant sea lions bask in the sun on the beach. They weigh up to 5,000 pounds and return to this area from Alaska to have their young, to mate, and to molt. They shed their coats once each year and once again don shiny silver coats. More photos.

Nearby we spent the night at the Washburn Campground in San Simeon State Park. The next morning. after a stop at the tide pools at Laffingwell Beach and a drive along Moonstone Beach near Cambria, we passed wineries, horsefarms, mountains, oil fields, and desert before descending into the San Joaquin Valley and Bakersfield, Ca. We stopped to look at the Tule Elk, native to California, at the Tule Elk Preserve west of town and then arrived at our home for five days at the newly opened Bakersfield RV Park.

Santa Barbara, Ca

Our goal in Santa Barbara was to visit with Brett, Leon's son, and what a fine visit it was. We got a nice spot at the Lake Cachuma County Park 24 miles northeast of Santa Barbara. It seems the county parks were our best bet all along. It is in the 6,600 acre Cachuma Lake Recreation Area and the lake provides the water for Santa Barbara. The first afternoon was a bit warm, aka hot, so we went down the mountain through the Los Padres National Forest and shopped in Goleta. Then we had supper with Brett on Stearn's Wharf on Santa Barbara Bay, quite a scenic spot for some seafood. The pier was built in 1872 to serve cargo and passenger ships.
Santa Barbara is a nice coastal town with a Mediterranean climate and the red tiled roofs and white washed buildings reflect the Spanish heritage. It is on a narrow strip of land bordered by the ocean and the Santa Ynez mountains which leaves little room for all the traffic. More photos.

After joining us for breakfast in the campground, Brett played tour guide on Saturday and what a fine quide he was. We first toured Solvang, a tourist town begun by Danish immigrants in 1911. It has traditional half-timbered housing and architecture complete with windmills. There are also bakeries and lots of shops. The tourists flock to the place.
We then went back up the hill above Santa Barbara and hiked among the rocks to a place known by the locals as Lizard Head. What a view of the Pacific coast it provided!
Another winding mountain road nearby took us to the Chumash Painted Rock State Historical Park. On a cliff alongside the road are pictographs left by the Chumash Indians. Some of the drawings are thought to depict an eclipse that occurred in 1667. After having fajitas at the campground we once again hiked part way to Lizard Head to find Leon's phone!!! It was a truly awesome day. More photos of Solvang.

Santa Monica, CA

Early July 5 we headed north again and passed through the quiet coastal towns of Redondo Beach, Hermosa Beach and Manhattan Beach. The strand ran alongside the beach with multicolored small houses filling the side streets to the sand and water. In Marina del Rey we came to an upscale area alongside the marina before arriving at Venice Beach, a different kind of place. There is an eclectic group of people - the homeless mingle with those working out at Muscle Beach while others play tennis and use the other exercise facilities provided. Tourists mingle in the shops filled with cheap Chinese merchandise while others skateboard by. And this is at 9 am. This was the center of the beatniks in the 1950s and the hippies in the 1960s.

Further north on Highway 1 we stopped near the Santa Monica Pier and rode the bikes down on the pier to people watch and eat lunch. The pier is lined with small shops, eateries, pier vendors, fishermen, carnival rides, and people enjoying the ocean air.
Near Santa Monica Blvd. we strolled along the 3rd Street Promenade enjoying the shops, tourists, dinosaur fountains, and street performers. This is quite a popular shopping area.
Back on PCH the flat terrain changes to mountains alongside Highway 1 which follows along the beach. Many large homes with big gates line the road.
We got a spot for the night at the Sycamore Creek Campground in Point Magu State Beach but only because we "are handicapped." The state beaches seem to have many open spots each night that they don't release, either because Reserve America "might have made a mistake" or because someone "left early." It makes it very hard to find spots without reservations but most of them charge too much anyway for a site with no amenities. More photos.

Long Beach, Ca

We crossed the river from Seal Beach and found ourselves in Los Angeles County in the 5th largest city in California. The harbor and downtown area of Long Beach has gone through a major revitalization since 2000 that leaves a modern city along the Pacific shore. We drove along Shoreline Drive and past the lighthouse to the marina where they have an awesome bicycle path across the bay from the Queen Mary. We unloaded the bikes, rode the path, ate yogurt, walked the boardwalk, and spent the night at the marina. We didn't anticipate the noise in the middle of the night from people fishing on the pier behind the van.
We had bought VIP tickets online for the 4th of July on the Queen Mary and spent much of the 4th touring the boat. I was delighted to stop in the radio room and operate their amateur radio station as W6RO. The Queen Mary went into service in 1937 as a luxury liner and then was used to transport troops across the Atlantic during WWII. After the war she again became a first class cruise ship before retiring in 1967. In the afternoon we enjoyed a buffet and then had seating on the aft deck for the fireworks display over the bay. What a memorable 4th!! We watched thousand of cars leave the parking lot to cross the bridge back into town while we settled in for the night in the Queen Mary parking lot. More photos.

Orange County, Ca

San Juan Capistrano
After one last breakfast at Cafe 101 in Oceanside we traveled north on PCH past Camp Pendleton and through San Clemente detouring through Dana Point before we arrived at San Juan Capistrano. The mountains were closer to the beach but it was now about cute towns and historical areas. We did not see any swallows but we did enjoy a tour of the San Juan Capistrano Mission.
This mission was established by Father Junipero Serra in 1776, the seventh of 21 Spanish missions. Spain controlled California until 1821 when Mexico won it's independence. Abraham Lincoln returned the mission to the Catholic Church in 1865. The magnificent Great Stone Church inside the Mission walls was destroyed in the 1812 earthquake. Every spring the swallows return to Capistrano in March to nest and have their young. At one time they nested at the mission but are more widespread throughout the area now.
We also toured the historical Los Rios District, one of the oldest neighborhoods in California. Three adobe homes there were built in 1794. More photos.

Laguna Beach

We then traveled north to Laguna Beach, a hilly little town with steep cliffs and art galleries, which is a popular art community. The traffic on Sunday afternoon was as we expected = bumper to bumper and crawling at a snail's pace. We stopped at a beach access and toured a beautiful little beach with tidal pools that trapped fish, crabs, and other little sea creatures. More photos.

Newport Beach
From Laguna we creeped north to Newport Beach but it was a vain effort to get down to the beach due to the traffic. Later when the traffic dwindled we did return to the beach and pier. The area was packed with young people partying. Many small rentals lined the beach near adjacent clubs and restaurants. How the locals manage the traffic on this small peninsula is unimaginable. We spent the night in Newport Beach and the next morning drove with ease alongside the beach and Balboa peninsula. More photos.

Huntington Beach
20 miles north on July 2nd led us to a lovely beach - Huntington. We paid the $10 entrance fee for all day parking in the beachside lot where there was plenty of room to accomodate the traffic and plenty of beach for all to enjoy. There is a revitalized downtown area that boasted huge buildings with sidewalk restaurants, shops and hotels. There is a long asphalt path along the inside of the beach where crowds were bicycling, skateboarding, rollerblading, jogging, and strolling. The town should be very pleased with their accomplishments. There was a festive attitude as the town was gearing up for a large fourth of July celebration. At dusk fires lined the beach and at 10 the beach was closed and all got quiet, unlike Newport Beach. We spent a lot of time riding the bike path and then bought an umbrella and put in a few hours on the beach. We spent the night parked next to the bridge that crosses the PCH to the Hyatt. More photos.

Seal Beach
On July 3 we continued 8 miles north to Seal Beach, a quaint small town passed by time. It is pretty much surrounded by a river, the beach, and a naval station therefore it has kept it's small town charm. We walked out on the pier and watched surfers, life saver schools and sunbathers. We also visited the library and city hall trying to find information about a distant cousin to no avail. A disconnected phone number left us at a loss.

San Diego County, Ca

Oceanside
We scheduled one week at the Guajome County Park in Oceanside, California in order to visit with Leon's daughter. Our first day in town started with a wine tasting with Trisha and Steve in Carlsbad and then we went to their place to continue visiting and for a bite to eat. On Tuesday we went back to their place for Steve's birthday cookout. It was great to visit with them and worth every mile of the long hot drive getting there.
The county park and campground seems to be a well kept secret. Two Indians from the nearby Mission San Luis Rey received the 2200 acre Rancho Guajome as a land grant from the Mexican governor in 1845. A later owner built a lake and marsh in the area and in the 1970s the County of San Diego bought the land to create a county park. Many of the locals come to the park area to walk, bike, picnic, and fish in the lake. We were only seven miles from the fun town of Oceanside alongside the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) and her 3.5 miles of white sandy beaches. More photos.











We enjoyed several hiking trails in the park after spending all of our days out touring the countryside.

We especially liked to go down to Oceanside, possibly have breakfast at Cafe 101, park alongside the beach and ride the bicycles on the path that borders the beach. Then we might drive further down the coast to another beach and watch the surfers or catch a nap. The Oceanside Pier is nineteen hundred and sixty feet long and is the longest wooden pier on the west coast.

Escondido
North of Carlsbad is an arid desert-like area in the San Pasqual Valley that is suitable for animals native to Africa and here we visited the San Diego Zoo's Wild Animal Park. It began 30 years ago as a breeding facility for the San Diego Zoo. The 180 acre sanctuary has settings similar to the animals' natural habitats. We saw most of the 3500 plus animals and 140 species. The day started with a tram tour among the larger animals: giraffes, water buffaloes, etc. in a natural setting. We decided that after seeing this we would forego the planned trip back into San Diego to visit the zoo. Included in our packet was a coupon for a wine tasting at the nearby Orfila Vineyards & Winery so we obliged before leaving the area. More photos.

Carlsbad
Leo Carillo, known as Pancho in the 1950s tv series "The Cisco Kid," bought over 2500 acres where he restored and added to the existing rancho beginning in 1937. It became a large working ranch with many vaqueros keeping it in working order. 10 acres are part of the historic park owned by the City of Carlsbad with restored buildings from his ranch which include a hacienda, pool, cabana, cantina, carriage house, stable and barn. We had a fun tour of the rancho which gave us a hint of what life would have been like in the area in past years. Peacocks running about the grounds also kept us entertained.

San Diego
An express train runs from Oceanside to San Diego, the eighth largest city in the U.S., with several stops along the way. For the senior price of only $5 each we could take the Coaster to San Diego so we took a one day whirlwind tour of the city. As we rode south we viewed the beach from the upper deck and disembarked in Old Town San Diego. In 1769 an expedition arrived and built the first of the California missions. The mission period ended with Mexico's independence from Spain in 1821 and the era of great ranchos began. Adobe homes were built in what is today known as Old Town. In 1848 California became a territory of the United States. After touring Old Town and eating fish tacos at Cafe Cayote we boarded the big red double decker tour bus where we viewed San Diego from the top level. We hopped off to tour the USS Midway at the harbor (embarcadero). We then continued through the gaslight quarter, once the main business distict which later became the city's infamous red-light district and later a skid row area before it's revitalization; Mission Hill, an affluent area next to Old Town; and Hillcrest, a bohemian village-like neighborhood with a mix of architectural styles and a shopper's paradise. I was surprised to find the town so hilly. We then boarded another bus for a tour through Balboa Park. In 1868, 140 acres of barren, cacti filled, pueblo land was set aside for a city park. It is now a cultural and recreational center which contains about 1200 acres of lush vegetation. In 1915 it was the site of the Panama-California Exposition. The ornate buildings constructed for the exposition and a later one in the 30s now house a myriad of museums. Balboa Park is also home to the San Diego zoo. More photos.

Aguanga, Ca

We reached the mountains outside the Palm Springs area by noon and were happy to climb to a higher elevation in search of cooler weather. The high desert provided plenty of sunshine and an ocean breeze in the little community of Aguanga. Our reason for stopping here was an Escapees Campground and we were delighted with what we found. It is the Cadillac of the SKP parks in many people's opinion. We enjoyed the library and both days made use of the pool and hot tubs. We might have ventured more in the area during our two day stay but driving the mountain roads was like a road race as the locals always seem to be in a hurry or think they are driving the Grand Prix. Therefore we opted to not go to nearby Julian for Apple pie or to the Mt. Palomar observatory, also in the mountains.
We did drive down into Temecula for groceries and learned that we were in wine country. Who knew? We enjoyed a visit to ards and other Leonesse Winery on a hillside overlooking the vineyard and neighboring wineries. More photos.
On Sunday we left for our reservation in Oceanside.

Laughlin, NV

Hot only got hotter as we made the 310 mile trip from Zion to Bullhead City, Arizona. We took the scenic backroad through the desert that ran alongside Lake Mead part of the way. The water is so low in Lake Mead that many of the marinas in the Lake Mead Recreational Area are closed. We drove across Hoover Dam and back but opted to not park and walk in the 104 degree temperatures to the visitor's center. More photos.

When we arrived at Bullhead City it took no time to check into the Riverview Campground and head over the Colorado River to Laughlin, Nevada to get in the a/c and out of the 110 degree weather. We visited several of the casinos but were surprised to find that shuttles do not run between casinos. We enjoyed a fine buffet at Harrah's and then saw a pretty good Elvis impersonator, Don Rose at the Riverview. After the show it was cool enough to enjoy walking alongside the Colorado River before calling it a day. More photos.

Zion NP, UT

After a morning bike ride in Red Canyon and a hike among the pines and red sandstone cliffs we completed scenic byway 12 and traveled all of 73 miles to Zion which became a National Park in 1919. The first white settlers to live in Zion were Mormons who were sent from Salt Lake City in the 1850s and in the 1860s to grow cotton, which was not available due to the Civil War, hence the area has been referred to as Utah's Dixie.


We entered down the steep incline and through the narrow tunnels on the east side of the park. The road was an engineering marvel in the 1930s but hardly accomodates today's rvs. They have to stop traffic and lead large rvs through the tunnel so that they can drive in the middle. We knew it would be hot and the 100 degree temperatures proved that. We also knew we wouldn't stay long. We got the last electric spot available and made use of the a/c until late afternoon at which time we boarded the shuttle at the visitor's center and marveled at the sheer cliffs that arise 2,000 to 3,000 feet in the canyon alongside the Virgin River. After dinner on the patio at the lodge we shuttled up to the Temple of Shinawa stop and took the delightful 2 mile riverside walk to the Narrows. This path follows along the Virgin River through a narrow canyon past hanging gardens. Some Evening Grosbeaks entertained us along the way as they were feeding in our path. A large buck with velvet still on his antlers also surprised us and didn't seem bothered by tourists walking by. More photos.

Bryce Canyon NP, UT

Bryce Canyon is the home of hoodoos, pinnacles of rock, often oddly shaped, left standing after millions of years of erosion. The Paiutes have a legend that people who lived here in the old days were turned to stone for their evil ways by the powerful Coyote. The cliffs, windows and arches in the deep ampitheaters are all colored in shades of red, brown, orange, yellow, and white which change with the rising and setting sun. With elevations rising from 6,620 feet to 9,115 feet, Bryce is cooler than the other Utah parks. John Wesley Powell conducted the first thorough survey of the region in the 1870s. Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce moved to the area and raised cattle shorthly thereafter.

Sunset Campground was a suitable spot in Bryce Canyon where we spent two days enjoying the weather and hiking the trails. Our first morning we drove up to the end of the road to Rainbow Point where we hiked the one mile Bristlecone Loop trail looking at Bristlecone Pines along the way. We spent the rest of the morning working our way back down the drive stopping at the many pulloffs to view various configurations of sandstone.
The most popular trail in the park perhaps, the Navajo Trail, is closed due to a landside of boulders of giant proportions. At dusk we descended the trail down 1/4 mile to the point where you could go no further. I call it a steep and strenuous hike coming back up but the park labels it moderate. Sleeping was optimum in the cool temperatures with gentle breezes blowing through Hernando's bedroom.
On the second day we took the 1.5 mile hike along the rim from Bryce Point to Inspiration Point. We caught the show at the visitor's center where I checked the bird book and learned I had indeed seen a Western Tanager. The red head, yellow body, and black wings made him a most colorful creature.
We also took the Moss Cave hike, .8 mile round trip, that is outside the park. It led to a mossy cave and a waterfall on the stream that flows down the mountainside and provides water for the town of Tropic. At one time the Mormons built a 10 mile ditch to direct the water to their settlement. More photos.

Thirteen miles down the highway we arrived at Red Canyon, a campground in the Dixie National Forest. It is a most peaceful place even though it is right along the road. We ended the day with hot dogs and s'mores cooked outside.

Before leaving the area we biked a short way up the trail alongside the road and hiked among the vivid red cliffs near the visitor's center. We were only 73 miles from Zion National Park but we knew it would be summertime once we went down the big hill.

Capitol Reef NP, UT

Capitol Reef National Park has lots of driving paths and hiking trails with pulloffs at various spots of interest. A giant wrinkle in the earth's crust called the Waterpocket Fold stretches for 100 miles across south-central Utah. This was created 65 million years ago by the same tremendous forces that later caused the uplifting of the Colorado Plateau. We started the first morning with a drive down the Grand Wash and then drove down the Capitol Gorge wash, two deep, twisting, water-carved sheer-walled canyons. We hiked further down the wash to see the signatures of pioneers, miners, and settlers who had come through the area beginning in 1871 and carved their names high on the sandstone cliffs.
The Mormons settled in Fruita by 1917 and planted fruit orchards as they moved west. The area was set aside in 1937 as a National Monument. In 1969 the Giffords, the last family in Fruita, sold their land to the National Park and moved away.

We viewed the Behunin cabin, the old Gifford homeplace, the schoolhouse, Indian petroglyphs, hiked along the Fremont River beside the campground, and climbed the ladder in one of the orchards to sample some deliciously sweet mulberries. We had paid $10 for two nights but once we realized it was 90 degrees early in the afternoon we decided one night had been enough and headed on down the road. More photos.

Not far from Torrey there are several forests with campgrounds and fishing streams. The area is full of quads and areas for 4 wheeling on trails that include the Great Western Trail that runs from Canada to Mexico. We stopped less than 20 miles from Capitol Reef at Single Tree, a campground in the Dixie National Forest. We had climbed to a higher elevation and the weather was delightful. Our camping spot at 8,000 feet provided a delightful view.
We made a treacherous hike though a meadow and down a steep hillside to view the Single Tree Waterfall. Even though the sign said .5 miles it seemed like forever due to the slippery footing. More photos.

From Single Tree we had a leisurely drive through the Dixie National Forest and Grand Staircase-Escalante. The Grand Staircase covers 1.9 million acres of red-orange canyons, mesas, plateaus, and river valleys and became a national monument in 1996. It is known for its rugged beauty and was the last place in the continental US to be mapped.

The views high in the mountains were spectacular and the narrow road with dropoffs on either side were a bit nervewracking. It felt like summer in Utah and elevation became the key to comfort.

Canyon Country, UT

We decided on the spur of the moment to go to Utah before the weather got too hot as we had planned to visit in August. So we left Cortez on a narrow 2 lane road, McElmo, which provided a 40 mph speed limit. We decided to tour some more ruins and detoured to Hovenweep. What a great idea! We walked along the canyon observing many of the ruins of the Ancient Puebloans. There are tall towers, outlines of multi-room pueblos, tumbled piles of shaped stone, small cliff dwellings, pottery sherds, and rock art that lie scattered across the canyon landscape. There was a sizable population here but noone has lived in the area for 700 years. There is a campground at the national monument which would be a nice place to stay on a cooler day (if there are no gnats) and then taking a morning hike in the canyon. More photos.

We then decided to go south to Monument Valley for lunch.

One just can't do it all if you proceed in only one direction. We enjoyed the various shades of greens in the Mormon Tea, the Utah Junipers, the sage and other desert plants in the mostly red soils. After lunch at Monument Valley's Visitor's Center we drove part way down the drive that weaves among the giant monuments of rock. We didn't go the entire way as we had other places to go. I was surprised they no longer had the campground but are building a hotel to open in 2008. The area is just over the border in Arizona and is part of the 16 million acre Navajo Reservation. No one knows when the first Navajo settled in the valley but for generations they have herded sheep and other livestock and raised crops in the area. More photos.

We stopped in Mexican Hat at one of the boat launches on the San Juan River and watched kayakers and rafters disembark. The float looked like a great idea for a hot day.

The rock formation at the right is supposed to look like a Mexican Hat.

Our next stop was to look out over the San Juan River at Goosenecks State Park. This is an amazing canyon that winds back and forth where the canyon was cut deeply by the river. Not far from there it was time to ascend the mesa. We climbed the steep gravel mesa that includes many 5 mph hairpin curves along the mostly single lane Moki Dugway. It tests my nerves each time I take that route. The photo is looking down at the road we just came from.

Once on the mesa we drove three miles down a dirt road to the Muley Point overlook where we could look across the desert floor from high above. We then had a quiet drive on a good two lane road to the Natural Bridges National Monument Campground. We got one of the 14 spots available and were pleased that the gnats were not too bad. We surely saw a lot in the 256 miles west, south, and north of Cortez.

In 1883 a prospector discovered the three magnificent bridges and in 1904 the National Geographic publicized the bridges. Theodore Roosevelt establed Natural Bridges National Monument in 1908. It sits high on Cedar Mesa, 6,500 feet above sea level. Two deep canyons were cut in sandstone formed from what was once the shore of an ancient sea.

There is a nine mile driving tour to view the natural bridges. Along the way are many pulloffs where you can hike to an overlook or even hike down to the bridges. The bridges were all created by water which distinguishes them from arches which are caused by other erosional forces. We hiked down under one of the bridges, Owachoma, which created a steep climb back up the desert terrain in the Utah sun. There is also an overlook that provides a view of one of the Ancient Indian ruins, Horse Collar Ruin, along the bottom of the canyon walls. More photos.


After enjoying the morning hikes we drove north through the Glen Canyon Recreation Area. (More photos.) We detoured through an old mining town, Hite, and down to look at Lake Powell. After we crossed the Colorado River the steep canyons included many shades of red. It is amazing that anyone ever managed to cut a road through the area. 155 miles this day found us at Capitol Reef National Park in Fruita, Utah.

Cortez, CO

We stopped in Cortez, Colorado to visit with friends Greg and Elaine enroute to California. We drove alongside the Dolores River up to Telluride for the day on Friday. Town was full of tourists and locals enjoying the sunshine and 70ish degree temperatures. This was an old mining town that became a popular ski resort. We strolled the main street and stopped for a fine lunch. Then we toured the city park where we learned there are small camping sites. At the end of the road we stopped to watch the waterfalls caused by the snow melting on the mountains. Days like this don't come along often enough. More photos of Telluride.

There is no grass growing under our feet in Colorado. On Saturday, 8 of us drove out to the BLM canyonlands area near Cortez. Here we unloaded the quads and took off down the sideroads in the high desert and former homeland of the ancient Anasazi Indians. We stopped in Yellowjacket Canyon for lunch with our friends and the gnats and then crossed the creek successfully but we balked at the second crossing. We drove back to Cannonball Mesa and viewed some other ruins. This area was settled even before Mesa Verde. After 32 miles of dirt roads we loaded up the quads and reflected on what a fine day we had! This canyon land full of unexplored ruins has been designated a National Monument: Canyons of the Ancients. More photos.